Granary Square is one of London’s most well-attended brunch spots. The likes of Caravan draw in the crowds with their lofty industrial interiors, artisan coffee and egg dishes. But just around the corner, a lesser-known eatery takes brunch to Greece and back, serving meze-inspired plates.
Fay Maschler, restaurant critic for the London Evening Standard, described The Greek Larder as “a Greek version of Bill’s” – a very fitting description. It offers good value, tasty food that may not be the most inspiring dishes you’ll ever eat, but are a “you know what you’re getting” kind of food that will put a simple on your face. You can count on having an enjoyable meal here – a great place to catch-up with a group of friends over a long, lazy brunch.
Wooden and metal tables and chairs, stone floors, an open kitchen and shelves lined with wine bottles and wicker baskets give a farmhouse feel. The restaurant doubles as a deli so you can take home seasonal Greek produce, including cheeses, charcuterie, breads and wine.
Start with a Greek coffee (£2.50), which is rich and earthy in flavour. Made in the traditional way, this coffee is incredibly sweet, so ask for medium sweetness or – as I did – for the sugar to be served on the side so you can sweeten to your own preference. While the “standard” coffees – the espresso, macchiato, cappuccino and such – are not brilliant, the Greek coffee is exceptional.
The Greek Larder’s brunch menu consists of light options such as strained yogurt topped with nuts, honey and fruits or flakey filo pastries (bougatsa) with a sweet or savoury filling, egg dishes, or larger plates such as grilled fish and slow-cooked lamb.
One friend chose the ‘Full Greek’ (£12) – a traditional British fry-up using homemade pork sausages and replacing very English baked beans for Greek elephant beans cooked with garlic and herbs – and the other went for the crispy wrap (£8) filled with scrambled eggs, avocado, tomato and springy kasseri cheese. I chose a vegetarian plate (£13) of creamy fava beans, dolmadakia – vine leaves stuffed with al dente rice – sweet and vinegary roast beetroot, crispy fried tangy feta and a crisp and fresh lettuce salad, all accompanied by fruity olive oil hummus and grilled sourdough bread.
Brunching in London has evolved to require an artisan cocktail, bottle of bubbly or glass or two of vino, so – as not to break this new tradition (somewhat an oxymoron) – we sampled one of the Greek wines on offer; a light, citrusy and floral white that paired well with my meal.
The Greek Larder
1 York Way,
T: 020 3780 2999
Open 11:00am – 22:30pm (Mon-Fri); 10:00am – 22:30pm (Sat); 11:00am – 16:00pm (Sun)