Restaurant Review: Percy & Founders, Fitzrovia, London

Percy & Founders is one of the latest additions to the Open House family, which also includes The Lighterman on Granary Square at King’s Cross and The Larder, also at Fitzroy Place, the award-winning development of new homes, offices and restaurants situation in Fitzrovia.

Percy & Founders hosts breakfast through to dinner and evening cocktails, and has become a popular spot for London’s boozy brunchers. The restaurant also offers the perfect setting for a traditional Sunday roast. Its range of dining spaces – which includes the elegant Dining room and the more casual Reading Room which features round tables and upholstered chairs – are warm and inviting. Shelves stacked with books and miscellaneous objects evoke a feeling of home, while high ceilings and a long marble bar inject a touch of grandeur.

The best seat in the house is a table for two beside an arch window which offers a spectacular view into Fitzrovia Chapel, the Grade II listed building situated at the heart of Fitzroy Place that was once part of Middlesex Hospital. The lucky diners who nab this table can gaze upon the chapel’s gilded mosaics while enjoying their meal.

Best seat in the house, with a view into Fitzrovia Chapel

I came to Percy & Founders for the roast and chose the dry-aged Lancashire beef sirloin (£22.50). The tender, rosy beef is served with glazed market vegetables, including carrots and parsnips, and potatoes roasted in duck fat – the roughed up edges resulting in a crisp golden shell, encasing a fluffy white inside. There’s plenty of vibrant green on the plate in the form of al dente broccoli and the whole affair is crowned with a puffy Yorkshire pud. Drowned in the glossy meat-rich gravy, it’s comfort on a plate.

Percy & Founders beef roast dinner

In my house, no Sunday roast is complete without a crumble for dessert, so I couldn’t resist the apple and blackberry crumble (£7.50). I was a little dubious when it arrived in a “rustic” cast iron dish – for me, the humble crumble should be dolloped into a big bowl rather than dolled up. A second alarm bell rang when I realised the vanilla custard was served cold. But this set up had been carefully crafted; when the cold custard is poured onto the oven-hot iron dish, it heats up instantly, soaking into the soft, gently spiced fruit. The rocks of crumble are shortbread in texture and flavour, baked to a pale golden, and the blackberries had been added once out of the oven, so they warmed up in the dish, but didn’t completely disintegrate in the high heat of the oven. A wonderful end to the meal.

Apple and blackberry crumble

Percy & Founders

1 Pearson Square, Fitzroy Place,

Fitzrovia,

London,

W1W &EY

T: 020 3761 0200

www.percyandfounders.co.uk

Open 7:30-23:30 Mon-Thurs; 7:30-00:00 Fri; 9:00-00:00 Sat; 9:00-22:30 Sun

Percy & Founders dining room

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