10 Greek Street, Soho, London

A black facade and a shiny number 10 set above a black door. 10 Greek Street is London’s Soho is the epitome of modesty. No frills decor and a daily changing, seasonal menu chalked onto a blackboard, this unshowy neighbourhood restaurant lets the food speak for itself.

The menu is divided into starters and mains, although this isn’t immediately obvious – with some starters available in both small and large sizes, either for sharing or to be enjoyed as a main. It’s a bijou line-up of dishes and a great deal of thought, creativity and craft is put into each dish. Yet served simply on white plates and in terracotta dishes (no slate, wooden boards or jam jars here) you’ll barely notice the incredible technique displayed.

Olives

10 Greek Street blackboard menu

10 Greek Street, Soho, London

Having whetted my appetite grazing on waxy sourdough, golden olive oil and fruity mixed olives, I tucked into pan-fried sea bass with mussels, lardons, grilled red pepper and samphire. Save the fish skin which could have been slightly more crisp, every element was exemplary, in particular the side of roasted new potatoes whose skin had been slashed for optimum crispiness, then sprinkled with grains of rock salt and chopped herbs. Land met sea in a wonderfully fragrant white wine, lemon and herb jus.

Sea bass with mussels and samphire

Crispy baked new potatoes

The dessert of strawberry, elderflower and Prosecco jelly ribboned with anise tarragon embodied British summertime. Accompanied by an elegant quenelle of indulgent clotted cream and crunchy crumble clusters, it was a childhood favourite reinvented that evoked memories of home.

By London standards, the meal was extremely good value, especially considering the quality of the ingredients and generous portions, as were the wines which ranged from £3 to £6 a glass.

Summertime dessert – strawberry, elderflower and Prosecco jelly

10 Greek Street

10 Greek Street,

Soho

London,

W1D 4DH

T: 020 7734 3677

www.10greekstreet.com

Food served 12:00-14:30 & 17:30-22:45 Mon-Sat; closed Sunday